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Dave4774

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Dave4774 last won the day on November 30 2017

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About Dave4774

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  1. Find a dealership on or near a hill, drive slowly down the slope and park when the nose is a foot from some solid obstacle then ask the dealer to reverse back up the slope. That should get a reaction - and maybe even some actual action other than a dented front bumper!
  2. Faulty alarm

    Mine very occasionally has a spell of nighttime activation, I park it on the driveway. Annoying, but as it's infrequent, I just put it down to a spider or fly in the car - I've never previously considered the cat possibility! When it happens I then lock the doors only, disabling the internal sensors and it's never repeated after that - nor has it happened for the last 2 weeks (touch wood). I use only my keycard manually, never walk-away auto-locking.
  3. Any work needed because the service was delayed will not be covered by the warranty. The time starts running from the date it was first registered and is the first of 12 months or 18,000 miles i.e. this month or asap in April.
  4. Well again, I've never (in the 11 months I've had it) had an issue of any kind with the automatic handbrake when taking off quickly or slowly, on the flat or on a hill, in busy car parks or on my driveway, in forward or reverse. I'm baffled by some saying they sometimes need to control the handbrake manually. There is a slight delay though when waiting for it to apply when stopping at say uphill traffic lights,. then it suddenly bites and can cause a jerk if the car isn't 100% stationary - but I avoid that by applying the footbrake for a second or two as I come to a halt. There is definitely less fine control with these electronic handbrakes though, compared to manual ones, and when I first encountered one on my previous car a Scenic over 10 years ago, I HATED them with a passion. Maybe I get on fine with them now because of that decade of practice!
  5. You should not have to release the handbrake manually! I have no issues with my 1.2L manual Kadjar when taking off up hills or on the flat and no need to rev it silly. Smooth as silk. Confirm the high bite point for the clutch, it was like that on my previous Scenic too. You'll probably get used to it all, eventually.
  6. No, it won't always be exactly 55L if the pump is an ATC pump (and the pump must say so). The differences in pumps are from the different temperatures in the underground tanks at different times of year, not between tank and car. Typically less than 1% says the government explanatory leaflet, because underground temperatures vary much less than air temperatures. https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/283253/laymans-guide-on-sta-measurement-v2-march_2011.pdf BUT... the biggest effect of petrol expansion will be after cold petrol from underground goes into a car tank on a hot day, it can (after a while) expand by a few percent so the petrol tank volume is probably quoted on the low side to hopefully reduce overspillages if your off to park at home nearby on a scorcher. For the above reasons, the true Kadjar tank volume is likely more than the quoted 55L, the 58L mentioned could be the true volume. Who's going to run 30 miles into the empty zone then fill up to test it?
  7. Yes if you fill it to the brim, if it's warmer outside or in your tank than in the underground tank, it can overflow when it warms up and expands. What I was saying in that earlier post that gave shredder101 a headache , is that automatic temperature compensation in some forecourt fuel pumps will display more litres than the actual fuel volume dispensed in winter, and fewer litres than the actual fuel dispensed in summer. In think that's how it works anyway, because petrol contracts when cold and expands when warm, but the energy content doesn't change. The alternative would be to alter the price but it would be changing so often that people would think the garage were on the fiddle! The standard temperature it's based on is 15 degrees C IIRC. It's all covered by official regulations I think - and the pumps using it should display a notice to say so.
  8. Part of it is temperature. It's mid winter, petrol contracts when cold and expands when warm, for the same amount of mass and energy. Some pumps correct for this automatically so you have to pay for all that extra energy it e.g. it would be say 100 litres based on a (standardised) 15 deg C temperature but in reality only 98 litres at say 5 degrees C might have gone in, which would be equivalent to 100 litres at 15 degrees C energy-and price-wise. That lets you squeeze an extra 2 litres (or whatever) more into the tank. So instead of charging a higher price for more energy per litre when it's cold, which they could do if they wanted to, they 'fake' the litres and keep the price the same (if fitted with automatic temperature compensation - ATC). In summer, the reverse would apply. The pump should indicate if ATC is being used. Plus all the other things mentioned above as the specs wil only be approximate.
  9. Walk away door locking

    Haha very funny. Bottom line: there can be too much automation, I prefer to have manual control, at least over how and when my car locks. It's purely down to personal preference and circumstances, which is precisely why there are options provided.
  10. No, I would only try that as a last resort; I am looking first to see if there is another way.
  11. With all my previous cars using physical keys to lock doors and start ignition, I could start the engine and run it for 5 minutes on the driveway to warm it up, melt windscreen ice etc. before getting in and driving off. To prevent theft, I would lock the car with my spare key set and head back indoors to finish getting ready. Many people I know, if not most, sometimes do this in very cold weather. But when I try to do this with my key-carded Kadjar, the doors will not lock. It was a particular problem last weekend when my daughter had a severe respiratory infection and bad cough and needed to get into an already warm car when I took her out - the initially cold air badly affected her. Does anyone know if and how it's possible to do this with a Kadjar (Sig Nav)?
  12. 1.6 or 1.2 Tce Signature S Cosmos Blue

    Me too, Renault and Nissan diesels are filthy - the emissions are many times higher in real life driving than the artificial testing (Euro 5 & 6). There are many articles on this this year, including: https://www.express.co.uk/life-style/cars/782194/diesel-car-NOX-emissions-pollution-vehicles
  13. Walk away door locking

    Tried it but turned mine off within a month, too many issues with the grandkids who can never make their minds up if they want to stay in or get out, sometimes even with other adult passengers. Everything happens too quickly becauise it's very short range and by the time they've made their minds up, I'm at the shop doorway (if I'm near it) from where I can control everything, lock/unlock/disable internal sensors. I love the long range of the manual key fob.
  14. Winter tyre pressure

    Off topis (sorry!) but there's going to be plenty of the white stuff around on Friday Saturday and maybe beyond that too. Not everywhere but *possibly* anywhere, if you see what I mean. The further north, inland and up high you are the more likely it is.
  15. kadjar Petrol MPG

    32 mpg for me in my 1.2 TCE around town (suburbia) and no lack of power, there's plenty of that. Mostly me + 1 passenger. I don't drive it hard, just 'normally' and I can get 37-40mpg on longer runs doing over 70 mph (but never 80) whenever I can. 22 mpg sounds to me like hard driving in stop-start conditions or windy roads in the peak District with a full load, soft tyres a full tank a big roof rack and then some! Otherwise, there's a fault somewhere or somethings badly worn.